Venkat-Trek

Thursday, November 25, 2010

PALAMALAI – RAMA IN EXILE

PALAMALAI – RAMA IN EXILE

This abode of Sri Ranganathar is located in Palamalai Hills near

Periyanaickenpalayam on Mettupalayam Highway (Ooty Road) about 30 kms from Coimbatore. Of late, this place is in news for man-animal conflict particularly with the ‘Rajahs’ (elephants – that’s how the locals address it) or ‘Doddavar’ (respectful reference to a family elder in Kannada). As everyone knows this is man made friction. We are encroaching and trespassing their territory and they have been left with no choice but to retaliate. Resultant, the hamlets on the fringes of Palamalai range are prone to elephant 'trespass' for food and water. Ironically,the man is fighting for his own survival.

The legend says Sri Ranganathar in form of a statue was in place (where the temple stands now) and it so happened that an ant hill formed over it . The cows that were grazing daily here use to empty milk into the ant hill for abhishekam of Lord Ranganathar. The cowherd grew suspicious about the low yield of milk and one day, he followed his cows and was aghast to see his cows emptying the milk into the ant hill. He took a crowbar and smashed the ant hill and to his shock blood oozed from the ant hill and to his horror the statue of Lord Ranganathar started bleeding and it seems Lord cursed him and he was paralyzed. The cowherd prayed Lord Ranganathar for mercy and sought pardon for the act which he had done out of ignorance. The lord took pity on the cowherd and asked him to build a temple as repentance. Thus the temple of Sri Ranganathar came up on Palamalai hills.

The view from Palamalai is breathtaking, a panoramic view of Coimbatore on the south-eastern side and on the other, unending folds of the Mother Nature. The hill/mountain range stretches upto Nilgiris on the northern side and on the western, it goes upto Anaikatty (Tamil Nadu) and thereon the range runs into the Kerala side of Manarkkad and the famous Silent Valley National Park. The terrain from the Palamalai side towards Kerala is almost inaccessible by foot and only seasoned trekkers and the tribals may give a go. The wildlife here is mainly Rajah (the elephants), wild gaur (cousin of bison), deer, leopards, occasional sighting of bear, wild dogs, wild cats, snakes, different variety of birds like Peacocks, owls, bald eagles, jungle fowls, etc. its an ideal location for bird sighting too.

Few lines about the temple, it is maintained by a trust and largely supported by the Lakshmi mills group and the main deity is Ranganathar/Vishnu/Perumal/Kodhanda Rama and other gods. Surprisingly, it’s a big temple given its location and proximity and everyday there is free mid-day anna dhaanam (food). The temple situated on the Palamalai hills actually acts as a balm to both the man and the Rajah. The tribals living in and around 6 hamlets look forward to this temple and they have set up few kiosks which sell sukku (herbal) coffee/tea and snacks and are wholly dependent on the visitors to this part of the world. The temple’s holy tank situated around 1 km away which helps the pachyderms to quench its thirst and literally the tank sports an oasis look. Green and verdant surroundings and the bathing ghats built few hundred years back with a huge banyan tree as a back drop makes it a wonderful setting.

The ghat section is around 4 kms which leads to the temple and en route (one km before the main) there is small sign board on the left side of the road alerting one about an Amman temple which will be around 500 mtrs from the main ghat road and beware, the path through the jungle is a kutcha one, rough with stones and rocks but its worth the drive. One lonely old man doubles up as a priest and caretaker of the temple. There is a small perennial spring which takes care of the temple's rituals and acts as an oasis to the animals all round the year.

A government run tribal residential school which is around 500 mtrs from the temple caters to the development of the tribals living within a radius of 6 kms. Girls and boys around 80 trek barefoot (braving the animals encounter) from remotely located hamlets and attend the school which employs one headmaster, two teachers and a cook.

Apart from enjoying this virgin forest and tranquil location, one can contribute to the welfare of children by donating books, clothes, toys, sports goods, etc directly to the headmaster. This act will doubly enhance the spirit of adventure and one’s spiritual quest too.

HOW TO REACH: TAKE A BUS FROM GANDHIPURAM/UKKADAM OR ANY BUS GOING TO METTUPALAYAM/OOTY AND ALIGHT AT PERIYANAICKENPALAYAM AND FROM THERE TAKE A MINI BUS OR REGULAR BUS GOING TO KOVANOOR, i.e. foothills of Palamalai.

There are two ways of reaching the temple one, private jeeps ply from Kovanoor to the temple and the other option is trek which might take about one to two hours depending upon one's stamina. Sometimes, I prefer to walk and enroute one can watch many birds. By foot, start early or if you are driving any time is okay during the day and watch out those serpentine roads with blind curves and also keep your eyes and ears open who knows what is lurking round the corner.

PALAMALAI RANGE

THESE PHOTOS SHOWCASE VARIOUS MOODS OF THE PALAMALAI RANGE TAKEN DURING AUGUST 2009 – JANUARY 2010

RANGE INTO KERALA UPTO SILENT VALLEY

HOLY TANK

SINCE WHEN ONE HAD A VADA IN A PAATTI’S (GRANNY) SHOP

ARE YOU IN A MOOD TO JOIN?

BY FOOT(ROCKY TERRAIN)

DWARF RATHAM

THREE APOSTLES

PALAMALAI RINGS

PALAMALAI RESIDENT

ROLLER COASTER ROAD

PALAMALAI AMMAN TEMPLE

WAY TO PALAMALAI AMMAN TEMPLE

THE LONELY PRIEST OF PALAMALAI AMMAN

THE HOLY TANK

ELEPHANT DROPPINGS

CHILDREN AT PALAMALAI FOOTHILLS

TRIBAL SCHOOL AND HAPPY LOT

PALAMALAI IN BLOOM

TOUGH TIMES IN PALAMALAI

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

‘VELLINGIRI’ – SOUTH INDIA’S KAILASH YATRA

‘VELLINGIRI’ – SOUTH INDIA’S KAILASH YATRA

This abode of Lord Shiva in Poondi, 2 kms from the famous ISHA DHYANA LINGAM is 45 kms away from Coimbatore. This cave shrine has no dated history and local legend claims it to be more than 1000 year old swayambhu (natural formation) Lingam nestled in the Poondi hills (Siruvani Range).

I have been hearing about this since my childhood during Hyderabad

days and my dream came true after I was transferred to Coimbatore two years back. During May/June 2009, I chanced upon meeting Col.Seshadri of Kovai School of Adventure and Nature, Rajmohan & Senthil, Naturalists – the energetic trio spurred me to join them in the Vellingiri pursuit. The normal season to visit this place is Mar-May/early June before the monsoon becomes vigorous. During the first week of June, 2009 my call came to embark on this adventure. We started from Kovai at 4.45 AM and reached the foothills of Poondi around 5.30 AM and parked our bikes (I was asked to not bring my car – later at the end of our trip I realized why they have advised). [I was asked to carry a rucksack, water bottle, lunch, biscuits, peanut cakes (chikki), glucose, towel, extra underwear].

Around 5.45 AM we started the ascent, the first hill (total seven hills) was very steep strewn all along the path with roughly arranged steps (stones found around have been placed and some of them as high as 2 to 3 feet by some good pilgrims). Within 30 minutes of the climb, my energy started sapping and I was totally drained to the extent of my head started spiraling 360 degrees and nausea feeling made me almost faint (my nephew Balaji and Sridhar, a banker all first timers had the same effect). Here, the expertise of the above trio helped us restore our stamina and confidence. They forced us to eat biscuits, gulp glucose and drink water, I tell you it had a terrific effect within minutes and we never turned back thereafter. Despite this small setback I did not lose the sight of thick jungle, occasional sighting of the giant Malabar squirrel, Malabar Trogons (red breasted, black necked bird), green pigeons and ofcourse, the droppings of the Gajarajas, wild dogs, even leopard pug marks enroute.

After one & half hour of the climb we reached the second hill and it was time to unpack breakfast beside a perennial mountain spring (and once again the experienced trio were right in asking us to carry just one bottle of water), we perched on one of the bamboo platforms set up by the local tribes which served as our dinner table (despite the litter left behind by other pilgrims the spectacular view of the palakkad pass did not diminish). This refueling pumped us to cruise smoothly and from the third hill onwards the loosely arranged steps started vanishing and squirrel path began, the jungle suddenly started to become thinner and grass lands appeared. Now it was time for the hills to play hide and seek when we had the feeling that we were inching towards the peak it started to grow and move away from us. Strong chilly winds greeted us from the fourth hill and the path was becoming narrower and on the left side, deep gorge and valley (about 1500 feet) following throughout & on the right side was evergreen forest and one never know what would be lurking there. Meanwhile between fourth and fifth hills there were couple of bamboo kiosks set up by the local tribes selling some herbs, fruits, sukku coffee (dry ginger coffee, actually it is herbal drink, I advise travellers to patronize the local produce and sensitise the co-travellers about pollution which will go a long way of the survival of indigenous people and preservation of this bio-sphere). From the fifth hill to the sixth hill as one goes up, on the left side one can see the breathtaking reservoir of Siruvani (nestled on the Kerala side) – The Nectar of Coimbatore – supposed to be the world’s second tastiest water (here the water is pumped thru gravitation means towards the Kovai side). Even as one starts to cherish the sight, the clouds engulf the view and the mist covers all our faces much to the delight of me and this phenomenon continues till the summit of the seventh hill.

Moving on, five hours later we reached the sixth hill and time to refresh at AANDI SUNAI (fresh mountain spring and pond), took a dip in the freezing pond and emerged totally recharged (extra pair of undies came handy here). Finally, we were at the foothill of the seventh and the most sacred of the Vellingiri Aandavar hills. During the seventh hill ascent on the right side of the hill, I saw a Siddhar (tapasvi) in deep penance posture amidst high grass (picture posted below), the scene was straight out of the amar chitra katha classics. One more thing, we were asked to remove the footwear (most of them don’t wear at all) on this seventh hill and were surprised that the path was so soft despite the terrain was rocky and had a cushioning effect on the feet. This hill is also called THIRUNEER hills (vibhudhi-the holy vermillon). The holy hill seemed to have been shaved off on the left portion (as if offering to the god) and shrine looked tantalizingly so close but took nearly an hour to reach the summit and when we saw the sanctum cave totally covered in mist, it had a mystifying effect and lo! what a feeling at the lotus feet of South India’s Kailash Shiva (also I felt like a speck of dust/atom on the summit). The Shiva Linga was nicely perched in the cave and the occasional sounds of bells and conch was reverberating the abode of the Vellingiri God facing the valley with the fragrance of the incense sticks and the holy vibhudhi transported us to the real KAILASH (one can understand the effect on the faithfuls!). It took nearly 6-1/2 hours to reach the holy abode to attain bliss. After resting there for 30mts. our descent started. That’s another story.

After one hour of trail downhill, on the fifth hill overlooking Siruvani we decided to unpack our lunch (but hunger seemed to cease) and completed the formalities. Now, the drizzle started and our team leaders were slightly worried and were hoping that this should not turn heavy. Luckily, we could take shelter in one of those make shift bamboo kiosks set up during the season now lay abandoned. After 20 mts or so, the rain fizzled out and we had to scurry down as the dusk was fast approaching. Moving on, literally started racing down despite I was advised not to rush and to my relief, I was first guy of our team to reach the base.

At one stage, I was contemplating of giving up and at the end I surprised myself of completing this trek smoothly and successfully. Full credit to the above experienced Rajmohan and Senthil without whom, I wouldn’t have embarked on this wonderful journey of my life time, so far. So, the bandwagon moves on……..

Tips:

Go walking atleast for a week and get good sleep the day before the actual day of departure, go in a group, travel light (don’t drive car after your return from the hill, chances are one can doze off at the wheel-my team leaders rightly advised so) take glucose, biscuits, peanut barfis, chappatis or bread with jam (this will pump up glucose levels), just a bottle of water, fill up enroute the real mountain spring, its nectar. Take extra underwear, towel, some offering to the cave shrine (if one wishes so) and finally bring back the litter that will make the place a real holy one.

Like Sabarimala, women are not encouraged here.

Best season: Feb-early June, Nov-Dec (carry pullovers)

How to reach: 45kms from Coimbatore Bus Stand (Ukkadam)

This yatra is not arranged by any tour organizer (take help of the locals), the cave temple is not run by any devasthanam or trust. The cave is a natural formation and no temple structure is in place.

Thanks and wish me many more such endeavours so that I can keep sharing and posting.